US 605 slowed and began to descend. The vivid blue Lake Mead was interrupted only be a tiny speck of concrete, otherwise known as the Hoover Dam. The Airbus 319 banked sharply and my stomach dropped quicker than the aluminium tube I was strapped into. Seemingly endless rocky desert gave way to industrial units, houses and sports fields as we continued our final approach. The undercarriage screeched on the hot tarmac as we touched down. We’d just arrived at McCarran International Airport, gateway to Sin City... I mean Las Vegas, Nevada.This neon, glass and concrete oasis sits in the middle of the Mojave Desert. And it gets hot, very hot. The thermometer regularly flirted with 110oF (43oC) during our stay, but the lack of humidity made the climate surprisingly bearable. The wife and I were slumming it at the Bellagio Hotel of Ocean’s Eleven fame. After turning on the charm with the check-in assistant we were upgraded to a junior suite on the 23rd floor. This made for a very agreeable stay indeed.
Gambling is synonymous with Las Vegas like Romeo is with Juliet, North Korea is with nuclear weapons and Bert is with Ernie. Gambling is in your face and it’s everywhere. When architects design Las Vegas resorts, they don’t start with the entrance or lobby, they plonk the massive casino down on their plans and fit everything else in around it. Consequently, you can’t get anywhere in these places without having to walk past roulette tables, poker rooms and row upon row of slot machines.
Over 35 million people visit Las Vegas every year and 86% of these tourists will gamble. The average person will spend 3.6 hours per day at the tables and will gamble $700 during their stay.
With so many people throwing around so much money, Las Vegas is a town where dreams do occasionally come true. Take Linda Thomas, whose husband’s business had just failed. As she dropped a quarter into a slot machine she wondered whether those four rotating symbols ever lined up for anyone. After violently spinning away, those four symbols did line up, and lights started flashing and alarm bells started ringing. But there was no torrent of quarters spilling out of the machine. Instead the casino manager approached and calmly told Linda that she had just won $1.8 million. But this win seems like chicken feed compared to the $40 million won by a 25 year old at Excalibur Hotel on 21 March 2003.
But gambling isn’t the only pastime in Las Vegas as there’s a plethora of shows to cater for every taste.
The wife and I went to see Cirque du Soleil’s Mystere at Treasure Island. It was a feast for the eyes of very fit men and women doing the seemingly impossible as they propelled their bodies through the air and posed in gravity-defying positions. We also managed to get some cheap tickets to see Lance Burton at Monte Carlo. Whilst not as spectacular as David Copperfield’s show at MGM Grand, this was good old fashioned magic at its best - a treat for all the family. And the scantily clad dancers were an especial treat for the dads in the audience.
You can gamble and you can see shows. And the third part of the Las Vegas trinity is food. You can eat until your heart’s content or your stomach bursts, whichever happens first.
There’s a restaurant to suit every palate and every budget. You can fine dine in the 1,000 ft high revolving restaurant at the top of Stratosphere, or you can gorge on the ‘all you can eat’ buffets at any number of casino resorts.
The gourmet buffet at Bellagio is extremely popular. The wife and I queued for nearly an hour to get in, whilst high rollers using their complimentary passes strutted past as they skipped the line. For $30 a head, you can feast on Alaskan crab legs, ribeye steak and much, much more. There is food as far as the eye can see and I know now where the phrase ‘your eyes are bigger than your belly’ originated. The food was good and plentiful - too good and too plentiful.
After a week of indulging in the grievous assault on the senses that is Las Vegas, it was sadly time to leave. This was our third time in this crazy town, and something tells me there’ll be a fourth, and possibly a fifth, at some point in the future.




